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Monday, June 25, 2012

Whirling Dervishes



We entered a cave and passed through a tunnel that opened into a theater carved from rock. The blistering heat of the day couldn’t reach through tons of insulating rock. We were in Cappadocia, here to see the famous Whirling Dervishes.


I knew little about them, aside from that song “Maria” in The Sound of Music, where singing nuns complain that Maria could throw a whirling dervish out of whirl. I remember wondering what this meant but never bothered to find out. Here I was, forty-seven years later, about to find out.


As the lights darkened I remembered how, as a kid, I’d fling out my arms and spin around as quickly as I could until I was so dizzy I’d collapse on our front lawn. Was that what this was all about? Watching grown men in skirts spin around without getting dizzy?


A voice in broken English admonished us against taking pictures until after the ceremony. I noticed this wasn’t referred to as a show. It all felt rather illicit. I was reminded that the monastic life of the Whirling Dervishes was outlawed in the 1930s by Atatürk, founder of the modern Turkish republic. Atatürk wisely felt that young Turkish men shouldn’t be hidden away in monasteries. He wisely wanted the country to shift its attention from religion to the progressive ways of the West.


A curtain was pulled back and figures emerged in a blade of light, a half dozen cloaked musicians with medieval instruments. Behind them came the Dervishes, dressed in black with the exception of their towering beige camel-hair hats. The music started, reeds, drums and unfamiliar string instruments. It was surprising how these primitive devices could create such a palpitating mood of expectation. The Dervishes bowed to the empty hat on far side of the circular stage, their tall hats (tombstones for the ego) seeming to defy gravity by staying on their heads when touched to the ground. According to our guide, the bow was to honor Mevlânâ, their thirteenth century spiritual leader. Mevlânâ, creator of the Whirling Dervishes, was said to have whirled for two full days. It was his belief that the fundamental condition of existence was to revolve. He knew the world to be made of revolving atoms, knew that blood revolved within the bodies of men and animals and understood the revolving nature of the planets and stars. His achievement was to acknowledge and embrace this feature of existence through an act of homage—whirling.


They looked exposed when they removed their black cloaks, as if the whiteness beneath was not only purity but vulnerability. They lined up and acknowledged each other, and slowly, one by one began to spin, giving the impression of dropping into a fathomless void like falling snowflakes. We sat close enough to feel the uplift of wind from their skirts as they spun in the same direction as the Earth on its axis, one hand pointed upward to receive the blessings of Allah while the other was turned downward to pour Allah’s blessings onto the people. Nothing was kept for themselves.


I finally understood that this was not a performance, it was a ritual, a re-creation of infinity and Creation on a subterranean stage, a thousand year old version of a high energy particle accelerator.


No one has ever been able to point out for me the differences between Allah and God, and I’ve come to assume that, if there are any, they’re insignificant. I can’t claim to know what these Whirling Dervishes believe, what thoughts animate their spirits, but their sincere commitment to Allah and His universe lead me to accept that they’ve achieved a harmony with existence that I can only imagine. I might not understand their beliefs, just as I don’t understand many of the tenets of my own religion, but this manifestation of faith was enough to set me whirling.


32 comments:

  1. I don't think I could go watch that in person. All that whirling would probably make me nauseous.

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  2. I've always wanted to see this in person. You did a beautiful job of describing it too. Turkey just moved up again on my must see travel list. Thanks for sharing!

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  3. I got dizzy just reading about the whirling around.

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  4. Mostafa Kamal a.k. Ata Turk ( Father of Turks)was so right. This form of religion" Sufism" have no space in Islam. I like their poetry, harmony, and message of love and peace....tough just that. Even in Turkey it is just for tourism.
    Here, it came from there, and has formed its worst shape.

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  5. The only differance is that Allah does not mind cutting peoples heads off.

    God thinks that is distasteful.

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  6. Interesting. I was not familiar with this at all. ;)

    S

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  7. How fascinating. I did not know how deeply rooted it was in religous beliefs. I could never whirl like that, I know, as I get nauseous sometimes even on a mild curve near our home.

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  8. Another fascinating post! Thanks for sharing.

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  9. Sounds like a magical, other-worldly experience.

    xoRobyn

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  10. Interesting; I knew nothing of whirling dervishes before I read this. I had heard the term, but that's it. Thanks for cluing me in!

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  11. I have heard of them and seen pictures before but can't imagine watching them, let alone twirling like that without getting sick. I knew it was a religious act--something sublime and ecstatic, I thought. I have always enjoyed learning about other people's cultures and beliefs. Very interesting to hear what you thought of it. Thanks for sharing. :)

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  12. I never want to set foot in the Middle East. I see a great difference between God and Allah. Have you read the Koran? We have.

    Have a terrific day. :)

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  13. Fascinating stuff. I have heard of whirling dervishes but have never bothered to look them up. Hearing you speak of this with such reverence piques my interest. I need to get more money in my life so that I can travel.

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  14. I was unaware that whirling could have a religious connection. You learn something new everyday day!

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  15. When I was a kid, I thought a whirling dervish was some kind of spinning deviled-egg concoction. Then I figured out it was a person. But the rest was a mystery until now.

    Perhaps you could explain the concept of "dibs". I never could wrap my childish head around that one, either. To this day I have never heard a person in real life use that term. But characters in books and movies seem to fling it about with reckless abandon. Maybe it's a regional thing.

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  16. What a wonderful insight Stephen, thank you for sharing.

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  17. I wonder what makes them want to do this?

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  18. Love learning something new!!! Thanks for sharing!

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  19. Sounds fascinating, and such a good place to see them. You got a lot out of your trip to Turkey.
    Did you take the top photo (in black and white)? I love it!

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  20. Very interesting! I'd never heard of this before. My sister traveled to Cappadocia a few years ago, but I don't know if she saw the Whirling Dervishes. I'll have to ask her.

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  21. Amazing; while i knew there was some religious purpose to it, i had no idea exactly what.

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  22. They are extraordinary. You did a fine job bringing the scene to life.

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  23. very descriptive thanks. I would have gt nauseous just watching :)

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  24. Loved every moment of this post. Thank you.

    Pearl

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  25. Nicely told, Stephen. My mother occasionally used the expression "like a whirling dervish" in reference to someone moving around or speaking quickly. It was a couple of decade before I'd ever seen that it wasn't some sort of spinning animal like I'd thought. I believe some were featured on Donahue. Fascinating stuff. Thanks for sharing it.

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  26. Well, its p practiced in my country as well; but the traditional touch has been lost. Reading your travel diaries, I feel like visiting Turkey too now. :)

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    Replies
    1. If you ever decide to drop by the city of Mumbai, I'll be more than happy to show you and Mrs Chatterbox around ^_^

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  27. Oh I am so out of the loop- what a wonderous adventure you must be having- I have ALWAYS wanted to see them!
    Beatiful pic- yours?

    Stunning- cant wait to come back and read more but I am sneaking to read/write this:)
    Worth it, tho'.
    Tracy

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  28. Agreed - well done post about a unique calling.

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  29. Your s/o got a nice photo of you in that last image. You spin-devil you! ;-)

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  30. You have such great adventures and share very interesting things!

    All I did was buy a donut today.

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